DID: Got a later start than planned due to snafu with the car taking us to Hoi An. Agency had promised us a 6-seater but sent a regular car. Normally we’re ok crunching up in a sedan with the bags but today’s was a 3-4 hour drive so wanted to be comfortable. Had to wait for a replacement, then had to argue with tour operator who wanted to charge us extra for the bigger car (even though he’d guaranteed it at the price we paid originally). Lesson learned – get them to write ALL pertinent details on the receipt.
Views from the drive over the Hai Van Pass in the Ba Na Mountains were incredible. Turquoise water, white sand, deep green jungle mountains. No birds though, kind of strange. Stopped at an old bunker from the ‘American War’ at the top of the pass for some photos.
Nearest major city/airport is Danang, about 40 minutes from Hoi An. Major construction happening in Danang along the coastline, the big hotel chains are moving in (Hyatt, Le Meridien, Sheraton, among others). Hoi An is an ‘ancient town’/
trading hub south of Danang. We’re here for the ancient atmosphere, famous tailoring and the Full Moon party on the 13th.
The old town has been completely made over, lots of streets to wander centered around a large outdoor market. It’s somewhat pedestrian-friendly (no cars, but there are loads of honking motorbikes), and many of the hotels have loaner bicycles for you to use.
Nice shops, true to its merchant roots. Tailors not to Jason’s taste (fabric choices were better in Bangkok) – but I had amazing success at one and ordered three (3!!!) dresses. Bit risky because the sample sizes were too small to try on, and who knows what the fabrics I chose will be like, but at these prices I couldn’t resist.
All in all, the sort of place that’s walkable, comfortable, convenient, clean, totally geared for tourists - with a hotel in the center it’s easy to see how weeks could slip away.
But not at all what I was expecting. I should preface by saying that when we started talking about taking a trip to Vietnam, I read a book written by a journalist who travelled here in the late ‘90’s. She talked about a country where tourism was practically non-existent, even finding restaurants and hotels was sometimes a struggle (she quite often ate at a single table set up in front of someone’s home, serving whatever the family was eating). Obviously I knew things would have changed over the last 15 years…but I was not expecting an Epcot-center like experience! And to their credit, they have really done a beautiful job with the historic area, it’s all very tasteful/quaint (to use my mom’s favorite word), with very little of the super-tacky souvenir syndrome. For this family, a 2-night stay is sufficient. Gives us enough time to recharge and buy some nice souvenirs. Any longer and we would be feeling like we were missing the ‘real’ Vietnam.
And the food section of the market has such a putrid stench that even Rhys complained. Puzza!
ATE: Breakfast – the hotel manager had the restaurant package up some pastries and fruit for us to take in the car. (She had been brought in to help interpret once the taxi situation went awry and I think she just wanted to do something nice for us, plus Rhys was putting on the charm…)
Lunch – GnR and I ate bbq by the pool at the hotel in Hoi An. Skewers of chicken/pork/beef with dipping sauces and pork spring rolls. I liked the bbq but neither of the boys did so spring rolls were ordered for them. They ate them but were totally focused on running around after chickens (they roam the hotel grounds) and getting to the pool. Jason had pork/pate baguette sandwiches at the market while he was off investigating the tailor situation.
Snack – Bazar Café (www.bazarcafe.net) in Hoi An center. GnR had ice cream sundaes (vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, peanuts). Gavin LOVED this ice cream, he wants to come back for dessert every day he says. Jason and I had Biere Larue, pretty good. Best Vietnamese beer so far I think, but it could be just that it was really cold. (most of the beer we’ve had has been chilled but not frosty.)
Dinner – Mermaid (Nyu Y) (www.restaurant-hoian.com). Gavin had pho, Rhys had chicken fried rice. Jason and I had a banana flower salad with chicken (we ordered a second dish of this!), crispy pancake with chicken and shrimp, pork spring rolls (slightly spicy, nice for us but Gavin was not pleased!), pork stuffed eggplant (Jason said this was "the best an eggplant can be". Not sure if that was a compliment or not but he did eat it all).
Dessert – Hoi An Patisserie. We managed to convince Gavin to try something new (he REALLY wanted to go back for another Bazar sundae) – wasn’t hard once he saw the chocolate brownies at the Patisserie. I was suckered in by the pineapple upside down cake. Both ended up being just ok (they were really dry). Guess we should have listened to Gavin!
SLEPT: Heritage Life Resort in Hoi An. Another good one! Best feature is that the room has a sofa for Gavin and they set up a crib for Rhys so we don’t have to set up any beds. Hotel overlooks the river and is centered around a huge square-shaped pool. Water is very warm (to the point of not being as refreshing as I might like) – the deepest point is at the center of the square and it’s only about 5 ft. Good for Gavin though, he can touch the bottom nearly everywhere. And internet connection is speedy and strong, woohoo! Room rate includes 30-minute massages for Jason and me, plus $30 at the hotel bar – all indications of a great stay to come!
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